Kitec Plumbing and the Windsor Home

by admin | Jul 9, 2012 | Home Maintenance, Home Repair, Plumbing

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Source: The Windsor Star – June 29, 2011

A family rocked by a $13,000 plumbing bill is warning people to beware of potentially faulty plumbing lurking behind the walls of homes built or renovated in the last two decades.
Frank and Annette Cappellino built their dream home in LaSalle, near Windsor, Ont., about 10 years ago. Last fall, the Cappellinos came home to a flood in their basement.
“Water was just spewing out like a waterfall,” said Frank Cappellino. “A pipe had totally burst.”
Cappellino said after a home inspection by a plumbing distributor and a representative of the Canadian manufacturer IPEX, the rep told him the cause of the leak was defective pipes branded under the name Kitec — pipes that were running throughout the house.
“He said he had to take a part of it back to his company to get it tested but indicated that if it was his pipe, basically he would have it replaced,” Cappellino said.
The Cappellinos contacted the company to find out the testing results, but said they were told they couldn’t have a copy of the report because a class action lawsuit was underway. IPEX provided the Cappellinos with the name of the Windsor law firm leading the suit. Cappellino said they joined the legal fight shortly thereafter.
On Tuesday, lawyers for IPEX Inc. and IPEX USA LLC announced they had reached an agreement in the lawsuit, and that a $125-million US settlement fund has been proposed.

Product used extensively

Another family, whose home was built the same year as the Cappellinos, also ended up replacing all the pipes in their home at their own expense, after finding issues with their Kitec pipes, manufactured by IPEX.
Plumbers in the region have been getting more and more calls about the Kitec brand of pipe, also known as PEX.
According to Kyle Fowler, co-owner of Fowler Plumbing in Windsor, if you built or remodelled your home in the last decade or so, it’s likely Kitec pipes were used. He said he gets at least one call a week that turns out to be Kitec-related, and he said the plumbing system was used in most of the newer subdivisions.
“I even have some in my house,” Fowler said. “Because we didn’t know. We thought it was good.”
Cappellino shows the Kitec hot water pipe that burst last fall. Karen Brady/CBCThe Kitec plumbing system consists of blue and orange flexible piping and brass fittings, used to carry cold and hot water through a home. Kitec products were also used in radiant heating systems.
The pipes were made from polyethylene and a thin inner layer of aluminum, and plumbers considered them to be an excellent product because they were cheaper than copper and their flexible nature made the product easy to install.
The class action lawsuits in Canada and the U.S. allege that the product was negligently manufactured, which caused the pipes to disintegrate prematurely.
The pipes were sold from 1995 to 2007, and potential claims have been filed by residents of Alberta, B.C., Ontario, Quebec, and the Maritimes, according to Dave Robins, the lawyer representing Canadians in the class action lawsuit.
Kitec was sold under various brand names, including Kitec, PlumbBetter, IPEX, AQUA, WARMRITE, Kitec XPA, AmbioComfort, XPA, KERR Controls and Plomberie Amelioree.

Fittings recalled in 2005

In 2005, IPEX recalled brass compression fittings from Canadian and U.S. distributors. The Canadian statement of claim alleged the fittings were faulty causing pipes to disintegrate. Plumbers say the brass reacted with the chemical composition of the pipe, causing it to corrode, or “dezincify,” and fail.
Tim Tiegs, a faculty co-ordinator for the skilled trades programs at St. Clair College in Windsor, said the only way for homeowners to make sure the allegedly faulty pipes don’t turn into costly water damage claims is to have them replaced.
“Most of what I’ve read and heard is the fact that if you have it, you need to replace it … that it’s gone from whether or not it will fail, to when it will fail,” said Tiegs.
Fowler said replacing pipes usually means cutting open walls — a costly repair.
“It’s the only way to absolutely guarantee that you’re not going to have any trouble, because you can fix leaks but that’s just the start. It will go through the whole house eventually,” he said.
Tiegs said at the very least, homeowners with Kitec plumbing systems should have a trusted plumber check out the condition of the pipes and fittings.
Property owners and those looking to buy a home should also be aware of the possibility of problems insuring homes if the plumbing is found to be faulty, he said.

Settlement agreement reached

Nicholas Rosati of Windsor and Anthony Bellissimo of Toronto initiated the Canadian class action lawsuit, which was certified in February. There are two suits in Canada — one for Quebec and one covering the rest of the country. A multi-district class action suit was initiated against IPEX in the U.S. as well.
A settlement agreement was reached Tuesday.
A statement issued jointly by the lawyers of the Canadian and American plaintiffs said:
“IPEX denies these allegations and asserts that the Kitec system is not defective and that the vast majority of the systems will last throughout the warranty period [30 years]. The parties have agreed to the settlement to avoid the expense, inconvenience and distraction of further protracted litigation and to fully resolve this matter.”
IPEX Inc., which has offices in Toronto and Verdun, Que., refused to comment on the allegations about the company’s products or the lawsuit when contacted by CBC News.
Canadian lawyer Robins said the settlement fund will be open to claims for eight years “because the prospect of the product failing could materialize over some time.”
The settlement agreement still has to be approved in court, he said. None of the allegations against IPEX have been proven in court.

Your Furnace Filter Windsor Real Estate

by admin | Jan 4, 2012 | Blog, Energy Saving, Home Maintenance

Your Furnace Filter

Compliments of www.cameronpaine.com

What a Furnace Filter Can do for You

Traditionally, furnace filters were designed to protect the furnace and fans. With increased air quality awareness, some filters are now being installed to reduce exposure to particles which can affect your health.

There is a wide variety of furnace filters available. However, you may find it confusing to select one which is suitable. This purpose of this document is to provide you with guidance when selecting your furnace filter.

What Airborne Particles are Found in Your Home?

The particles you breathe in your home come from a variety of sources including:

dust on floors or other surfaces that is disturbed by activity in the house
dust generated by smoking, burning candles, cooking, doing laundry, etc.
hair and skin flakes from humans or pets
particles from the outside air which come into your home with infiltrating air

Some particles are so small that they are inhaled and then exhaled without being trapped in your lungs. Some larger particles are trapped in your nose and throat and never reach your lungs. Still other particles are too large to be inhaled.The particles most dangerous to you are those that enter your lungs and lodge there.

You can see the particles of dust which accumulate on your television screen, shelves, and furniture. But you can’t see the respirable particles. Respirable particles can be easily inhaled into your lungs and provoke respiratory illness. Although you would probably like to keep visible dust out of your home, the main health risk comes from respirable particles, which include tobacco smoke, spores, bacteria, and viruses.

The activity levels of the people in your home can affect the air you breathe. Activity such as vacuuming and cooking can create or stir up particles. On the other hand, during periods of inactivity such as the middle of the night, particle concentrations tend to be much lower.

Filter Research

CMHC conducted a study to verify filter manufacturer claims and to determine whether good filters will significantly reduce your exposure to airborne particles. All results are compiled and discussed in the research report: Evaluation of Residential Furnace Filters (1999). You can obtain a copy of this report by calling the Canadian Housing Information Centre (CHIC) at 1 800 668-2642. A summary of the results of this study follows.

Research Program

The CMHC study first tested ten filter types in a single home and then the following filters in 5 additional homes:

i) 25 mm (1″) premium media filter
ii) Charged media type electronic
iii) 100 mm (4″) pleated media filter
iv) High efficiency bypass filters, such as a HEPA (high efficiency particle arrestor)
v) Electronic plate and wire (ESP)

Air in the houses was tested when these higher efficiency filters were in use. The results were compared to when no filter was used.

The electronic plate and wire filter (ESP) produces some ozone during its operation. Exposure to elevated ozone can irritate your lungs. Separate testing was done to verify whether the amount of ozone produced by the ESP could affect the occupants of the home.

Testing Limitations

Each filter was in use in each house only for one or two days. The effects of dust accumulation on filter performance could not be evaluated in these tests. If a filter actually cleaned dust out of a house by cleaning house air, these tests were too brief for such effects to be seen.

Research Results

The research showed that exposure of the house occupants to airborne particles appears to be directly linked to their activities when they are in the home. The furnace filter appears to have only a moderate effect on the exposure of an individual to respirable particles in the home.

Consider each member in your home to be followed by a cloud of dust—like “Pig Pen” in the “Peanuts” comic strip by Charles Schulz. When occupants are moving around, they stir up the dust. The dust in this cloud is usually not affected by the quality of the furnace filter because the filter is far away down a duct.

Table 1 shows the percentage of improvement provided by each filter versus having no filter. The improvements are greater when there is no activity in the home, but particle levels were quite low in the test houses during these periods whether or not the air was being filtered.

Table 1 : Filter Results

Filter	% improvements during active periods in the home	% improvements during non-active periods in the home
25 mm premium	21	57
Charged media	9	29
100 mm pleated	9	13
HEPA bypass	23	38
ESP	31	71

The Cost of Clean Air

For a furnace fan filter to be effective, your furnace fan would have to run almost all the time. Unless you already have your furnace fan operating all the time, this additional fan use can add $200 or more per year to your electric bill, unless you have a high efficiency furnace fan motor. Table 2 shows the cost, including maintenance, of each filter over a period of 15 years compared to the cost per unit of clean air they provided.

The table shows that filters which cost the least produced very little clean air. The 25 mm pleated filter actually had the greatest cost per unit of clean air. The ESP filter was the most cost effective because it produced the most amount of clean air, and cost very little to do so.

Table 2 : Cost of clean air

Filter	Maintenance and capital costs, per year, over 15 years ($)	Amount of clean air produced (litres/second)	Cost of clean air per year ($/litres/second)
25 mm pleated	48	17	3.36
25 mm premium	100	97	1.13
Charged media	43	44	1.25
100 mm pleated	93	60	1.71
HEPA bypass	240	175	2.03
ESP	67	298	0.26

What About Ozone?

Despite being the most effective filter in the tests, the ESP produces small amounts of ozone during operation. In the research project, a survey of fifteen homes with ESP filters showed that all ESPs created ozone in the air stream of the duct. None of these raised ozone levels in the house air above the safe concentrations recommended by health guidelines. During the test period, ozone levels were always higher in the outside air than in house air, despite the ozone production by the ESP filters.

Conclusions

This research showed that the particles in the duct air can be reduced when an upgraded filter is installed.The results also showed that this reduction will only moderately reduce indoor exposure to respirable particles.

Since the research was undertaken, the filter industry has developed a new testing standard and rating system. Look for the “MERV” rating on the filter; the higher the MERV rating, the better the filtration. Make sure that your furnace technician approves a change to a high efficiency filter. Some of the filters with higher MERV ratings will reduce the amount of air passing through the furnace and affect its performance.

So… How do You Reduce Levels of Respirable Particles?

Our best current guess is to reduce dust entry by:

removing footwear on entry;
keeping major dust generators (smoking, pets, etc.) out of the house;
reducing dust collecting surfaces (open shelves, carpets, upholstered furniture, etc.);
diligent and frequent vacuuming with an efficient vacuum cleaner;
reducing the entry of particle-laden outdoor air by closing windows, improving house airtightness, and installing an intake filter on the air supply;
using a good furnace filter.

Most of these recommendations will also reduce the amount of visible dust in your house.

Home Maintenance Schedule

by admin | Jan 4, 2012 | Blog, Home Maintenance

Home Maintenance Schedule

Regular Maintenance is the Key

Inspecting your home on a regular basis and following good maintenance practices are the best way to protect your investment in your home. Whether you take care of a few tasks at a time or several all at once, it is important to get into the habit of doing them. Establish a routine for yourself, and you will find the work is easy to accomplish and not very time-consuming. A regular schedule of seasonal maintenance can put a stop to the most common — and costly — problems, before they occur. If necessary, use a camera to take pictures of anything you might want to share with an expert for advice or to monitor or remind you of a situation later.

By following the information noted here, you will learn about protecting your investment and how to help keep your home a safe and healthy place to live.

If you do not feel comfortable performing some of the home maintenance tasks listed below, or do not have the necessary equipment, for example a ladder, you may want to consider hiring a qualified handyperson to help you.

Seasonal Home Maintenance

Most home maintenance activities are seasonal. Fall is the time to get your home ready for the coming winter, which can be the most gruelling season for your home. During winter months, it is important to follow routine maintenance procedures, by checking your home carefully for any problems that may arise and taking corrective action as soon as possible. Spring is the time to assess winter damage, start repairs and prepare for warmer months. Over the summer, there are a number of indoor and outdoor maintenance tasks to look after, such as repairing walkways and steps, painting and checking your chimney and roof.

While most maintenance is seasonal, there are some things you should do on a frequent basis year-round:

	Make sure air vents indoors and outdoors (intake, exhaust and forced air) are not blocked by snow or debris.
	Check and clean range hood filters on a monthly basis.
	Test ground fault circuit interrupter(s) on electrical outlets monthly by pushing the test button, which should then cause the reset button to pop up.
	If there are young children in the house, make sure electrical outlets are equipped with safety plugs.
	Regularly check the house for safety hazards, such as a loose handrail, lifting or buckling flooring, inoperative smoke detectors, and so on.

Timing of the seasons varies not only from one area of Canada to another but also from year to year in a given area. For this reason, we have not identified the months for each season. The maintenance schedule presented here is, instead, a general guide for you to follow. The actual timing is left for you to decide, and you may want to further divide the list of items for each season into months.

Fall

	Have furnace or heating system serviced by a qualified service company every two years for a gas furnace, and every year for an oil furnace, or as recommended by the manufacturer.
	If you have central air conditioning, make sure the drain pan under the cooling coil mounted in the furnace plenum is draining properly and is clean.
	Lubricate circulating pump on hot water heating system.
	Bleed air from hot water radiators.
	Disconnect the power to the furnace and examine the forced-air furnace fan belt, if installed, for wear, looseness or noise; clean fan blades of any dirt buildup.
	Check chimneys for obstructions such as nests.
	Vacuum electric baseboard heaters to remove dust.
	Remove the grilles on forced-air systems and vacuum inside the ducts.
	Turn ON gas furnace pilot light (if your furnace has one), set the thermostat to “heat” and test the furnace for proper operation by raising the thermostat setting until the furnace starts to operate. Once you have confirmed proper operation, return the thermostat to the desired setting.
	Check and clean or replace furnace air filters each month during the heating season. Ventilation system, such as heat recovery ventilator, filters should be checked every two months.
	Check to see that the ductwork leading to and from the heat recovery ventilator is in good shape, the joints are tightly sealed (aluminum tape or mastic) and any duct insulation and plastic duct wrap is free of tears and holes.
	If the heat recovery ventilator has been shut off for the summer, clean the filters and the core, and pour water down the condensate drain to test it.
	Check to see that bathroom exhaust fans and range hoods are operating properly. If possible, confirm that you are getting good airflow by observing the outside vent hood (the exterior damper should be held open by the airflow). See the About Your House fact sheet CMHC Garbage Bag Airflow Test for a simple way to estimate the airflow.
	Check smoke, carbon monoxide and security alarms, and replace batteries.
	Clean portable humidifier, if one is used.
	Check sump pump and line to ensure proper operation, and to ascertain that there are no line obstructions or visible leaks.
	Replace window screens with storm windows.
	Remove interior insect screens from windows to allow air from the heating system to keep condensation off window glass and to allow more free solar energy into your home.
	Ensure windows and skylights close tightly; repair or replace weatherstripping, as needed.
	Ensure all doors to the outside shut tightly, and check other doors for ease of use. Replace door weatherstripping if required.
	If there is a door between your house and the garage, check the adjustment of the self-closing device to ensure it closes the door completely.
	Cover outside of air-conditioning units and shut off power.
	Ensure that the ground around your home slopes away from the foundation wall, so that water does not drain into your basement.
	Clean leaves from eavestroughs and roof, and test downspouts to ensure proper drainage from the roof.
	Drain and store outdoor hoses. Close interior valve to outdoor hose connection and drain the hose bib (exterior faucet), unless your house has frost-proof hose bibs.
	Have well water tested for quality. It is recommended that you test for bacteria every six months.
	If you have a septic tank, measure the sludge and scum to determine if the tank needs to be emptied before the spring. Tanks should be pumped out at least once every three years.
	Winterize landscaping, for example, store outdoor furniture, prepare gardens and, if necessary, protect young trees or bushes for winter.

Winter

	Check and clean or replace furnace air filters each month during the heating season. Ventilation system, such as heat recovery ventilator, filters should be checked every two months.
	After consulting your hot water tank owner’s manual, drain off a dishpan full of water from the clean-out valve at the bottom of your hot water tank to control sediment and maintain efficiency.
	Clean humidifier two or three times during the winter season.
	Vacuum bathroom fan grille.
	Vacuum fire and smoke detectors, as dust or spider webs can prevent them from functioning.
	Vacuum radiator grilles on back of refrigerators and freezers, and empty and clean drip trays.
	Check pressure gauge on all fire extinguishers; recharge or replace if necessary.
	Check fire escape routes, door and window locks and hardware, and lighting around outside of house; ensure family has good security habits.
	Check the basement floor drain to ensure the trap contains water; refill with water if necessary.
	Monitor your home for excessive moisture levels — for example, condensation on your windows, which can cause significant damage over time and pose serious health problems — and take corrective action if necessary. Refer to the About Your House fact sheet Measuring Humidity in Your Home.
	Check all faucets for signs of dripping and change washers as needed. Faucets requiring frequent replacement of washers may be in need of repair.
	If you have a plumbing fixture that is not used frequently, such as a laundry tub or spare bathroom sink, tub or shower stall, run some water briefly to keep water in the trap.
	Clean drains in dishwasher, sinks, bathtubs and shower stalls.
	Test plumbing shut-off valves to ensure they are working and to prevent them from seizing.
	Examine windows and doors for ice accumulation or cold air leaks. If found, make a note to repair or replace in the spring.
	Examine attic for frost accumulation. Check roof for ice dams or icicles. If there is excessive frost or staining of the underside of the roof, or ice dams on the roof surface, consult the About Your House fact sheet Attic Venting, Attic Moisture and Ice Dams for advice.
	Keep snow clear of gas meters, gas appliance vents, exhaust vents and basement windows.
	Monitor outdoor vents, gas meters and chimneys for ice and snow buildup. Consult with an appropriate contractor or your gas utility for information on how to safely deal with any ice problems you may discover.
	Check electrical cords, plugs and outlets for all indoor and outdoor seasonal lights to ensure fire safety; if worn, or if plugs or cords feel warm to the touch, replace immediately.

Spring

	After consulting your hot water tank owner’s manual, carefully test the temperature and pressure relief valve to ensure it is not stuck. Caution: This test may release hot water that can cause burns.
	Check and clean or replace furnace air filters each month during the heating season. Ventilation system, such as heat recovery ventilator, filters should be checked every two months.
	Have fireplace or wood stove and chimney cleaned and serviced as needed.
	Shut down, drain and clean furnace humidifier, and close the furnace humidifier damper on units with central air conditioning.
	Switch on power to air conditioning and check system. Have it serviced every two or three years.
	Clean or replace air-conditioning filter, if applicable.
	Check dehumidifier and drain — clean if necessary.
	Turn OFF gas furnace and fireplace pilot lights where possible.
	Have well water tested for quality. It is recommended that you test for bacteria every six months.
	Check smoke, carbon monoxide and security alarms, and replace batteries.
	Clean windows, screens and hardware, and replace storm windows with screens. Check screens first and repair or replace if needed.
	Open valve to outside hose connection after all danger of frost has passed.
	Examine the foundation walls for cracks, leaks or signs of moisture, and repair as required.
	Ensure sump pump is operating properly before the spring thaw sets in. Ensure discharge pipe is connected and allows water to drain away from the foundation.
	Re-level any exterior steps or decks that moved as a result of frost or settling.
	Check for and seal off any holes in exterior cladding that could be an entry point for small pests, such as bats and squirrels.
	Check eavestroughs and downspouts for loose joints and secure attachment to your home, clear any obstructions, and ensure water flows away from your foundation.
	Clear all drainage ditches and culverts of debris.
	Repair and paint fences as necessary — allow wood fences to dry adequately before tackling this task.
	Undertake spring landscape maintenance and, if necessary, fertilize young trees.

Summer

	Monitor basement humidity and avoid relative humidity levels above 60 per cent. Use a dehumidifier to maintain relative humidity below 60 per cent.
	Clean or replace air-conditioning filter, and clean or replace ventilation system filters if necessary.
	Check basement pipes for condensation or dripping and, if necessary, take corrective action; for example, reduce humidity and/or insulate cold water pipes.
	Check the basement floor drain to ensure the trap contains water; refill with water if necessary.
	If you have a plumbing fixture that is not used frequently, for example, a laundry tub or spare bathroom sink, tub or shower stall, run some water briefly to keep water in the trap.
	Deep clean carpets and rugs.
	Vacuum bathroom fan grille.
	Disconnect the duct connected to your clothes dryer, and vacuum lint from duct, the areas surrounding your dryer and your dryer’s vent hood outside.
	Check security of all guardrails and handrails.
	Check smooth functioning of all windows, and lubricate as required.
	Inspect window putty on outside of glass panes of older houses, and replace if needed.
	Sand and touch up paint on windows and doors.
	Lubricate door hinges, and tighten screws as needed.
	Check for and replace damaged caulking and weatherstripping around mechanical and electrical services, windows and doorways, including the doorway between the garage and the house. See the About Your House fact sheet Attached Garages and Indoor Air Quality for more information on preventing garage-to-house air transfer.
	Lubricate garage door hardware, and ensure it is operating properly.
	Lubricate automatic garage door opener motor, chain and other moving parts, and ensure that the auto-reverse mechanism is properly adjusted.
	Inspect electrical service lines for secure attachment where they enter your house, and make sure there is no water leakage into the house along the electrical conduit. Check for overhanging tree branches that may need to be removed.
	Check exterior wood siding and trim for signs of deterioration; clean, replace or refinish as needed.
	Remove any plants that contact — and roots that penetrate — the siding or brick.
	From the ground, check the general condition of the roof and note any sagging that could indicate structural problems requiring further investigation from inside the attic. Note the condition of shingles for possible repair or replacement, and examine roof flashings, such as at chimney and roof joints, for any signs of cracking or leakage.
	Check the chimney cap and the caulking between the cap and the chimney.
	Repair driveway and walkways as needed.
	Repair any damaged steps.

Home Maintenance Schedule Windsor Real Estate

by admin | Jan 4, 2012 | Blog, Home Maintenance

Home Maintenance Schedule

Compliments of www.cameronpaine.com

Regular Maintenance is the Key

By following the information noted here, you will learn about protecting your investment and how to help keep your home a safe and healthy place to live.

Seasonal Home Maintenance

While most maintenance is seasonal, there are some things you should do on a frequent basis year-round:

	Make sure air vents indoors and outdoors (intake, exhaust and forced air) are not blocked by snow or debris.
	Check and clean range hood filters on a monthly basis.
	Test ground fault circuit interrupter(s) on electrical outlets monthly by pushing the test button, which should then cause the reset button to pop up.
	If there are young children in the house, make sure electrical outlets are equipped with safety plugs.
	Regularly check the house for safety hazards, such as a loose handrail, lifting or buckling flooring, inoperative smoke detectors, and so on.

Fall

	Have furnace or heating system serviced by a qualified service company every two years for a gas furnace, and every year for an oil furnace, or as recommended by the manufacturer.
	If you have central air conditioning, make sure the drain pan under the cooling coil mounted in the furnace plenum is draining properly and is clean.
	Lubricate circulating pump on hot water heating system.
	Bleed air from hot water radiators.
	Disconnect the power to the furnace and examine the forced-air furnace fan belt, if installed, for wear, looseness or noise; clean fan blades of any dirt buildup.
	Check chimneys for obstructions such as nests.
	Vacuum electric baseboard heaters to remove dust.
	Remove the grilles on forced-air systems and vacuum inside the ducts.
	Turn ON gas furnace pilot light (if your furnace has one), set the thermostat to “heat” and test the furnace for proper operation by raising the thermostat setting until the furnace starts to operate. Once you have confirmed proper operation, return the thermostat to the desired setting.
	Check and clean or replace furnace air filters each month during the heating season. Ventilation system, such as heat recovery ventilator, filters should be checked every two months.
	Check to see that the ductwork leading to and from the heat recovery ventilator is in good shape, the joints are tightly sealed (aluminum tape or mastic) and any duct insulation and plastic duct wrap is free of tears and holes.
	If the heat recovery ventilator has been shut off for the summer, clean the filters and the core, and pour water down the condensate drain to test it.
	Check to see that bathroom exhaust fans and range hoods are operating properly. If possible, confirm that you are getting good airflow by observing the outside vent hood (the exterior damper should be held open by the airflow). See the About Your House fact sheet CMHC Garbage Bag Airflow Test for a simple way to estimate the airflow.
	Check smoke, carbon monoxide and security alarms, and replace batteries.
	Clean portable humidifier, if one is used.
	Check sump pump and line to ensure proper operation, and to ascertain that there are no line obstructions or visible leaks.
	Replace window screens with storm windows.
	Remove interior insect screens from windows to allow air from the heating system to keep condensation off window glass and to allow more free solar energy into your home.
	Ensure windows and skylights close tightly; repair or replace weatherstripping, as needed.
	Ensure all doors to the outside shut tightly, and check other doors for ease of use. Replace door weatherstripping if required.
	If there is a door between your house and the garage, check the adjustment of the self-closing device to ensure it closes the door completely.
	Cover outside of air-conditioning units and shut off power.
	Ensure that the ground around your home slopes away from the foundation wall, so that water does not drain into your basement.
	Clean leaves from eavestroughs and roof, and test downspouts to ensure proper drainage from the roof.
	Drain and store outdoor hoses. Close interior valve to outdoor hose connection and drain the hose bib (exterior faucet), unless your house has frost-proof hose bibs.
	Have well water tested for quality. It is recommended that you test for bacteria every six months.
	If you have a septic tank, measure the sludge and scum to determine if the tank needs to be emptied before the spring. Tanks should be pumped out at least once every three years.
	Winterize landscaping, for example, store outdoor furniture, prepare gardens and, if necessary, protect young trees or bushes for winter.

Winter

	Check and clean or replace furnace air filters each month during the heating season. Ventilation system, such as heat recovery ventilator, filters should be checked every two months.
	After consulting your hot water tank owner’s manual, drain off a dishpan full of water from the clean-out valve at the bottom of your hot water tank to control sediment and maintain efficiency.
	Clean humidifier two or three times during the winter season.
	Vacuum bathroom fan grille.
	Vacuum fire and smoke detectors, as dust or spider webs can prevent them from functioning.
	Vacuum radiator grilles on back of refrigerators and freezers, and empty and clean drip trays.
	Check pressure gauge on all fire extinguishers; recharge or replace if necessary.
	Check fire escape routes, door and window locks and hardware, and lighting around outside of house; ensure family has good security habits.
	Check the basement floor drain to ensure the trap contains water; refill with water if necessary.
	Monitor your home for excessive moisture levels — for example, condensation on your windows, which can cause significant damage over time and pose serious health problems — and take corrective action if necessary. Refer to the About Your House fact sheet Measuring Humidity in Your Home.
	Check all faucets for signs of dripping and change washers as needed. Faucets requiring frequent replacement of washers may be in need of repair.
	If you have a plumbing fixture that is not used frequently, such as a laundry tub or spare bathroom sink, tub or shower stall, run some water briefly to keep water in the trap.
	Clean drains in dishwasher, sinks, bathtubs and shower stalls.
	Test plumbing shut-off valves to ensure they are working and to prevent them from seizing.
	Examine windows and doors for ice accumulation or cold air leaks. If found, make a note to repair or replace in the spring.
	Examine attic for frost accumulation. Check roof for ice dams or icicles. If there is excessive frost or staining of the underside of the roof, or ice dams on the roof surface, consult the About Your House fact sheet Attic Venting, Attic Moisture and Ice Dams for advice.
	Keep snow clear of gas meters, gas appliance vents, exhaust vents and basement windows.
	Monitor outdoor vents, gas meters and chimneys for ice and snow buildup. Consult with an appropriate contractor or your gas utility for information on how to safely deal with any ice problems you may discover.
	Check electrical cords, plugs and outlets for all indoor and outdoor seasonal lights to ensure fire safety; if worn, or if plugs or cords feel warm to the touch, replace immediately.

Spring

	After consulting your hot water tank owner’s manual, carefully test the temperature and pressure relief valve to ensure it is not stuck. Caution: This test may release hot water that can cause burns.
	Check and clean or replace furnace air filters each month during the heating season. Ventilation system, such as heat recovery ventilator, filters should be checked every two months.
	Have fireplace or wood stove and chimney cleaned and serviced as needed.
	Shut down, drain and clean furnace humidifier, and close the furnace humidifier damper on units with central air conditioning.
	Switch on power to air conditioning and check system. Have it serviced every two or three years.
	Clean or replace air-conditioning filter, if applicable.
	Check dehumidifier and drain — clean if necessary.
	Turn OFF gas furnace and fireplace pilot lights where possible.
	Have well water tested for quality. It is recommended that you test for bacteria every six months.
	Check smoke, carbon monoxide and security alarms, and replace batteries.
	Clean windows, screens and hardware, and replace storm windows with screens. Check screens first and repair or replace if needed.
	Open valve to outside hose connection after all danger of frost has passed.
	Examine the foundation walls for cracks, leaks or signs of moisture, and repair as required.
	Ensure sump pump is operating properly before the spring thaw sets in. Ensure discharge pipe is connected and allows water to drain away from the foundation.
	Re-level any exterior steps or decks that moved as a result of frost or settling.
	Check for and seal off any holes in exterior cladding that could be an entry point for small pests, such as bats and squirrels.
	Check eavestroughs and downspouts for loose joints and secure attachment to your home, clear any obstructions, and ensure water flows away from your foundation.
	Clear all drainage ditches and culverts of debris.
	Repair and paint fences as necessary — allow wood fences to dry adequately before tackling this task.
	Undertake spring landscape maintenance and, if necessary, fertilize young trees.

Summer

	Monitor basement humidity and avoid relative humidity levels above 60 per cent. Use a dehumidifier to maintain relative humidity below 60 per cent.
	Clean or replace air-conditioning filter, and clean or replace ventilation system filters if necessary.
	Check basement pipes for condensation or dripping and, if necessary, take corrective action; for example, reduce humidity and/or insulate cold water pipes.
	Check the basement floor drain to ensure the trap contains water; refill with water if necessary.
	If you have a plumbing fixture that is not used frequently, for example, a laundry tub or spare bathroom sink, tub or shower stall, run some water briefly to keep water in the trap.
	Deep clean carpets and rugs.
	Vacuum bathroom fan grille.
	Disconnect the duct connected to your clothes dryer, and vacuum lint from duct, the areas surrounding your dryer and your dryer’s vent hood outside.
	Check security of all guardrails and handrails.
	Check smooth functioning of all windows, and lubricate as required.
	Inspect window putty on outside of glass panes of older houses, and replace if needed.
	Sand and touch up paint on windows and doors.
	Lubricate door hinges, and tighten screws as needed.
	Check for and replace damaged caulking and weatherstripping around mechanical and electrical services, windows and doorways, including the doorway between the garage and the house. See the About Your House fact sheet Attached Garages and Indoor Air Quality for more information on preventing garage-to-house air transfer.
	Lubricate garage door hardware, and ensure it is operating properly.
	Lubricate automatic garage door opener motor, chain and other moving parts, and ensure that the auto-reverse mechanism is properly adjusted.
	Inspect electrical service lines for secure attachment where they enter your house, and make sure there is no water leakage into the house along the electrical conduit. Check for overhanging tree branches that may need to be removed.
	Check exterior wood siding and trim for signs of deterioration; clean, replace or refinish as needed.
	Remove any plants that contact — and roots that penetrate — the siding or brick.
	From the ground, check the general condition of the roof and note any sagging that could indicate structural problems requiring further investigation from inside the attic. Note the condition of shingles for possible repair or replacement, and examine roof flashings, such as at chimney and roof joints, for any signs of cracking or leakage.
	Check the chimney cap and the caulking between the cap and the chimney.
	Repair driveway and walkways as needed.
	Repair any damaged steps.

Avoid Basement Flooding Windsor Real Estate

by admin | Jan 4, 2012 | Blog, Home Maintenance, Mold, Plumbing, Saftey

Avoiding Basement Flooding

Compliments of www.cameronpaine.com

Basement flooding is unfortunately a common occurrence in many parts of Canada. But the good news is that many types of basement flooding may be avoided. This publication explains some of the practical steps you can take to avoid basement flooding.

How Serious Is Basement Flooding?

Basement flooding is now being recognized as a potentially serious problem. There are many negative consequences associated with basement flooding, above and beyond the inconvenient mess and disruption of household routine. Research cites the following impacts:

Chronically wet houses are linked to an increase in respiratory problems.
Frequent occurrences of basement flooding can result in long-term damage to the building and equipment that may not be covered by insurance.
Insurance rates may rise to compensate for repeated basement flooding claims, and/or the minimum deductible may be increased significantly.
Property value may depreciate because the basement is prone to frequent flooding.

Before appropriate measures can be taken, it is important to identify the causes of basement flooding. These range from problems originating in the individual dwelling to problems associated with the municipal sewer systems that serve entire communities.

Why Do Basements Flood?

Water can enter your basement for a number of reasons. Water in your basement is most likely to occur during periods of heavy rainfall, or when snow is melting rapidly during a spring thaw. In these cases, your basement can be wet because of:

a leak or crack in your home’s basement walls;
poor lot drainage;
failure of the weeping tiles (foundation drains); and
overflowing eavestroughs or leaking/plugged downspouts.

Basement flooding may also occur because of:

a blocked connection between your home and the main sewer in the street;
a back-up of wastewater in the sewer system (or a combination of wastewater and rainwater from the sanitary or combined sewer system); and
failure of a sump pump (in some areas) used to pump weeping tile water.

Basements are also vulnerable to natural river flooding disasters, but these cannot be addressed by individual homeowners.

Flooding Basics

Municipalities attempt to prevent flooding by maintaining the public sewer system. Homeowners with private sewage systems (septic tank and field bed) can appreciate the need for regular maintenance, but unforeseen or accidental problems can occur in any type of system. Here is some municipal infrastructure terminology you should know:

Sanitary Sewer

A sanitary sewer is a pipe buried beneath the street that is designed to transport wastewater from your home. This consists of water from sanitary fixtures (toilets, sinks, etc.) and floor drains inside your house, and in some areas includes groundwater from weeping tiles around the foundation of your home.

Storm Sewer

A storm sewer is a pipe buried beneath the street that is designed to carry storm-related water runoff. Storm sewers are normally much larger than sanitary sewers because they are designed to carry much larger amounts of flow.

Figure 1 — Types of sewer systems serving houses in Canada

Sewer Backup

Extra storm-related water (from sources other than wastewater and groundwater) should flow into the storm sewer or soak slowly into the ground without entering the sanitary sewer. If excess storm water does enter the sanitary sewer system, it can overload this kind of system.
When the sewers are overloaded, the water level in the system rises above normal design levels, and this condition is referred to as “surcharge.” Basement flooding can occur if the home has sanitary fixtures or floor drains below the surcharge level (Figure 2).

Figure 2 — Basement flooding due to combined sewer backup

Practical Measures to Avoid Basement Flooding

Basement flooding problems are best diagnosed by working your way down from the eavestroughs and downspouts, to the lot and foundation drainage, and then to the plumbing system — both inside your home and beyond its connection to the municipal sewer system.

Eavestroughs and Downspouts

Water pours out of your eavestroughs into downspouts. If the downspouts are dumping the water right beside your foundation, it drains directly to the weeping tile and can easily overload your home’s drainage. Make sure downspouts extend at least 1.8 m (6 ft.) from your basement wall. Also, be sure the water does not drain toward your neighbour’s basement walls. It should drain away from your house toward the street, rear yard, or back lane. If your downspouts are connected to your home’s sewer system, or weeping tile, disconnect them.
Clean debris from eavestroughs regularly. If they overflow even when clean, replace them with larger size eavestroughs and downspouts.

Lot Grading

If the land around your home slopes in toward the foundation, rainwater heads right for the weeping tile around the basement and can overload your foundation drainage system. The land around many homes settles over time, and then slopes in toward the foundation. If your lot slopes inward, you’ll want to fill in and grade the lot so that, for at least 1.8 m (6 ft.) out from around the foundation, the land slopes away from your house.
Build up the ground around your house so that water drains away from your basement walls. Also, examine sidewalks, patios, decks and driveways. These can settle over time and cause water to drain back towards your basement walls (Figure 3).

Figure 3 — Grading and planting

Extend downspouts so that water flows away from your house and does not collect next to the basement walls and windows.
Proper drainage helps to:

reduce the amount of water flowing to your home’s sewer system and to the main sewer system, and lessen the risk of sewer backup;
reduce water seepage into your home through basement windows and cracks in your basement walls;
keep the moisture content of the soil around and under your house stable to reduce the chances of cracking and shifting. If water collects next to your basement, it can make its way to the footings that support the basement walls. The increased moisture may cause the footings to heave or settle; and
extend the life of your sump pump by reducing the amount of work it has to do.

Be sure that any drainage improvements you make do not cause water to flow onto your neighbour’s property.

Floodproofing Devices

If your home drainage system or the neighbourhood’s drainage system overloads, you may still be able to prevent rain water and sewage from backing up into your basement by installing one or more floodproofing devices, such as sump pumps or back flow valves. Each installation is unique and some devices (back flow valves) may require a plumbing permit. Check with your municipal office or a qualified plumber before you proceed with any installation

Sump Pit Drainage System

A sump pit drainage system includes a sump pit, a sump pump and a discharge pipe. The sump pit, set into the basement floor, collects water from the weeping tiles around your basement. The pump pushes the water outside your house through the discharge pipe (Figure 4).

Figure 4 — Typical sump pump installation

Place your sump pump discharge pipe so that it:

drains somewhere onto your property where water can be absorbed, such as your lawn or flower bed; and
does not direct water onto neighbouring properties, lanes, sidewalks, or streets.

Sump Pit

Clean the pit each year after freeze-up. Weeping tile drainage may carry small amounts of soil, sand and debris into the pit from around your basement foundation.
Some water may remain in the pit and cause a musty smell if it sits for a long time. If so, you can flush the pit by adding fresh water until the pump removes the stale water.

Sump Pump

Check and test your pump each spring before the rainy season begins, and before you leave your house for a long time. Pour water into the pit to trigger the pump to operate.
Remove and thoroughly clean the pump at least once a year. Disconnect the pump from the power source before you handle or clean it.
Check the pit every so often to ensure it is free of debris. Most pumps have a screen that covers the water intake. You must keep this screen clean.

Sump Pump Discharge Pipe

Check the place where the discharge pipe leaves the house. If the pipe is discharging right against the basement wall, the water will drain down into the weeping tiles and continue to recycle through the system.
Check the discharge point regularly to make sure that nothing is blocking the flow.
If your pump runs frequently in the winter, and the resulting ice is causing hazardous conditions on the lawn and sidewalks, call your municipal office.

Backwater Valve
A backwater valve is a device that prevents sewage in an overloaded main sewer line from backing up into your basement. The valve automatically closes if sewage backs up from the main sewer (Figure 5). A properly installed backwater valve must be placed so that sewage backup will be stopped and not come out through other outlets in your basement, such as sinks, toilets, showers and laundry tubs.

Make sure that you can get at the valve at all times.
Check the valve regularly and remove any material that may prevent the valve from operating properly.

You will normally require a permit and inspection to install a back flow valve and sump pit. Since part of the basement floor will be dug up and since proper placement of these items is important, we recommend that you use a qualified plumbing contractor.

Figure 5 — Back flow valves and sump pumps are effective means of avoiding basement flooding

Additional Protection Measures

There are also several additional flood protection measures that may be considered.

Plumbing Fixture Maintenance

Have a qualified plumber inspect all floodproofing devices and plumbing fixtures (i.e. sump pumps, backwater valves, floor drains, etc.) regularly to ensure proper operation. Check the operating instructions for more detailed information and safety guidelines, or ask your plumber to explain the details of your system to you.

Backup Sump Pump

Severe storms are often accompanied by power blackouts. A battery powered backup sump pump may be a prudent investment. Most pumps are made to fit in beside the main sump pump and also have an audible alarm that warns the main pump has failed so that you can attend to its repair or replacement. There are also water powered backup sump pumps available that run by water flowing through the pump impeller.

Basement Finishes and Furnishings

In the event a risk of basement flooding is still possible, it is advisable to install impermeable floor and wall finishes, such as ceramic tile, to lessen damage and make cleanup easier. Make sure basement furniture has legs that keep the furniture fabrics above any accumulated flood water. Area rugs are a good alternative to full broadloom as these can be removed and properly cleaned in the event of flood damage.

Insurance — Just in Case

Insurance that fully covers basement flooding damage is an important means of financial protection to homeowners.
Most policies include or can include coverage for damage caused by sewer back-up. Make sure your policy includes sewer back-up insurance.
Check regularly with your insurance agent or broker to ensure you have appropriate and adequate insurance coverage, including any extensions in coverage that may be available, which were not previously attached.
Keep a detailed inventory of your residence. It will be invaluable in the event of loss.
Make sure your insurance policies and related records are in a safe location and easily available after an emergency or disaster event.

Acknowledgements

CMHC wishes to acknowledge the contributions of numerous Canadian municipalities to this publication. All of their public information bulletins were consulted during the development of this publication. Their assistance and cooperation are greatly appreciated.

Last revised: 2011.

Painting: Walls, Ceilings and Floors Windsor Real Estate

by admin | Jan 4, 2012 | Blog, Home Improvement, Home Maintenance, Home Repair, Interior design

Painting: Walls, Ceilings and Floors

Compliments of www.cameronpaine.com

Painting is not the chore it used to be. A professional look is now easier to achieve. Whatever your project, talk to the paint experts where you purchase your paint. They are a valuable resource.

If you are having a hard time visualizing the colour, inexpensive computer software programs can allow you to try out different colours. Or, there may be a decorating service where you buy your paint.

Selecting paints

There are two main types of paint depending on the thinners and binders used; water-based (or latex) and oil-based (or alkyd).

Water-based paints use water as a thinner. They are often called latex paints even though they don’t use real latex, since rubber is not used as a binder any more. Today synthetic latexes are used, most commonly acrylic or polyvinyl acetate. Paints with a high acrylic content tend to have a tougher skin and can perform almost as well as oil-based paints. Latex paints can be easily cleaned up with soap and water.

Oil-based paints use a solvent thinner. Despite the name, oil-based paints are usually not made with oil. Instead, most use polyester resins, called alkyds. Although alkyds may be more durable and achieve a higher gloss finish, they are usually a less healthy choice than latex. Alkyd paints require mineral spirits for cleaning up.

Because paints are applied wet, and because they cover such a large area, paints can create a significant health problem during a renovation project. The problem is mainly caused by alkyd or solvent-based paints. They give off a number of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) as the solvent evaporates after painting.

These VOCs can be a strong irritant and can add to air pollution. Once the paint has completely dried and formed a tough skin, the emission levels drop. However, some paints can emit odours at low levels for a long time.

Exposure to VOCs varies from person to person. Effects include coughing, headaches, dizziness, or more serious conditions. It is especially important for respiratory sufferers, those with allergies, asthma, and households with young children or pregnant women to avoid paints with VOCs.

Comparing the VOCs of one paint to another is not an easy task. Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) are helpful, but manufacturers don’t have to list components which make up one per cent or less of their product’s weight. This means that some toxic components may not show up on the MSDS. The only sure way to know what the paint contains is by asking the manufacturer to list trace compounds.

There are some paints on the market that are solvent and VOC free. Look for the key words: Low VOC, or better yet. No VOC.

Painting myth

Contrary to popular belief, you can paint over oil or alkyd paint with latex paint.

To do so the walls should be cleaned, painted with a super adherent acrylic primer, then latex paint can be applied.To test if the paint on the walls is oil or alkyd some stores carry inexpensive test kits, or you can use methyl hydrate (gas line anti-freeze) or non acetone based nail polish remover.

Apply a small quantity of one of these products to a pad and rub vigorously on the painted surface. If the surface remains shiny it is oil/alkyd; if the paint is stripped it is latex.

Types of paint

It can be confusing when selecting the sheen of paint you want since the term used for the sheen varies by manufacturer.

Low-sheen (low-gloss) paints have none to little observable sheen. The amount varies slightly by manufacturer. Low-sheen paints can be called: flat, matt, eggshell, satin and velvet.

Higher sheen paints are semi-gloss, gloss and enamel. They have the most visible shine to them.

Low-sheen paints can be washed, but with care, higher sheen paints are the most washable and have the most durable finishes.

Most people select semi-gloss or high-gloss paints for rooms with high moisture levels such as kitchens and bathrooms, and high traffic areas such as main stairways and halls. Most people prefer to use semi-gloss or high-gloss paint on windows, trim and doors.

Bedrooms, dining and living rooms are more commonly painted with lower sheen paints.

Years ago, enamel meant oil-based paints.Today the term enamel can also mean durable latex paint.

Sealers are primarily used on new wood or masonry surfaces. They seal the surface of the material, forming a base coat which keeps the topcoat from being absorbed unevenly. They can be used to encapsulate materials to seal in gases thus preventing them from offgassing.

Primers are used to make the substrate more uniform, and to create a tight bond between the topcoat and the surface to be painted.

Cementious or masonry paints are used on concrete walls and floors.

Ceiling paints are designed not to drip.

Melamine paints are used for cabinets and shelves, and are very durable and washable.

Choosing paint by the brand is not enough. Many brand manufacturers make higher and lower quality lines of paint. As you move up in quality so does the price. Each grade is usually a few dollars more expensive than the previous grade. Avoid mixing the brands by using the primer of one brand with the finish paint of another. Paint will adhere better if you use the same brand for both applications.

If you buy all the paint you need at one time you have a better chance of getting a uniform colour.

Brushes and other tools

Ensure the rollers and paint brushes you buy are rated for the type of paint you are using. Better quality brushes help ensure that the paint strokes are less visible.

Estimating how much paint you will need

Measure the height and width of each wall to be painted then multiply to obtain the square footage.

For rooms with lots of windows and doors deduct the square footage of the windows and doors.

A 4-litre (1 gallon) pail of paint will usually cover 37 square metres (400 square feet).

When calculating how much paint to buy, check how well it is expected to cover the surface to be painted. This is called hiding quality. Painting over very dark colours may require using primer as the first coat or more coats of paint.

Having the primer tinted the same colour as the finish coat can provide better hiding qualities.

Latex based paints should not be stored for extended periods of time as they can go bad. When buying paint look for the most current date of manufacture on the container.

Getting ready

Preparation is the most important and most time consuming part of painting. Usually at least 80 per cent of the time spent on a painting project is spent getting ready and cleaning up.

Assess the surface that requires painting for needed repairs. Popped nails in the drywall or wallboard can be corrected by screwing a new screw into the stud either two inches above or below the popped nail. The popped nail can then be nailed in and the holes filled with wallboard or spackling compound. Make the patch on the hole as smooth as possible to minimize sanding.Wear a mask while sanding using no. 100 or no. 120 grit sandpaper if using wall repair compound and no. 220 grit for spackling compound.
For larger holes the compound may need to be applied in layers. Each layer should dry before the next one is applied. To help the compound bond to the drywall, apply a layer of glass fibre (mesh) tape. It comes in a roll similar to cellophane tape.
Vacuum the whole room and damp mop the floor if possible. Wash the surface to be painted with mild detergent and water. If there are grease marks on the walls, or if someone in the household smokes, you may first need to clean with TSP (tri-sodium phosphate). If using TSP, be aware that it is not a benign product, and should only be used while wearing rubber gloves and eye protection. Rinse well with clean water.
For very textured walls or ceilings, vacuuming may be the only pre-cleaning option.

Painting new drywall or wood

Previously unpainted drywall, or plaster must be primed. Previously unpainted wood can be stained, painted or urethaned.

Special considerations

Lead in paint

Lead in interior paint was taken off the market in 1979. Paint in houses or apartments built before that date almost certainly contain small amounts of lead paint.

Exposure to large amounts of lead can cause serious illness. Infants and children are especially vulnerable to lead. However, lead paint is not generally a problem if it is not flaking, peeling or blistering.To check if the walls contain lead, you can obtain a lead paint test kit at most major hardware and some health food stores.

Sanding or heat stripping lead paint requires safety precautions, including protective clothing, a mask, goggles and gloves. Lead paint in the form of sanded particles are a health hazard.

Pregnant women and children should never be exposed to dust or fumes caused during lead paint removal.

For further information on lead, order the free booklet Lead In Your Home from CMHC.

Covering water stains, marks and knot holes

Water stains on ceilings, wax crayon marks on walls and previously unpainted knot holes will bleed through most water based paints. A special stain blocking sealer should first be applied sparingly on the knots, stains or marks before applying the paint. For these special situations you may need to use shellac, alkyd or a polyvinyl acetate primer.

These products have an odour and therefore should be used only on the affected areas. When using these products ventilate well, preferably by running a fan. Place the fan in an open window and have the fan facing out.

Severely damaged walls

If walls are badly damaged, it may be quicker and cheaper to install an additional layer of new drywall.

Peeling paint

Peeling is usually a result of moisture under the paint, or of using the wrong type of paint. If moisture is the cause, it must first be corrected, then the surface can be scraped and sanded before painting.

Covering mold and water stains

Mold which appears as dark spots on the painted surface must be washed with soap and water, rinsed and dried before repainting. The cause of the moisture which resulted in mold, if not corrected, will allow the mold to come back.

Painting tips

Do not excessively thin paints as this decreases their wear resistance and washability.
If you use solvents of any kind, store the used solvents in an old paint container with a seal and take them to the toxic waste centre in your community. Do not pour solvents down the drain.
Always paint with a window open and when the temperature is above 10°C (50°F).
You can remove solvent based paint from your skin by using vegetable oil.
Smooth evenly painted walls are more readily achievable if you:
1. Sand really well after patching.
2. Use a roller which you have taken a lint brush to, before using.
3. Use a roller designated for the type of paint you are using.
4. Clean the surface to be painted thoroughly after sanding.

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